What it does
A dual-action ingredient that hydrates at low strengths and smooths rough, flaky, or bumpy skin at higher strengths by gently loosening dead surface cells.
Best for
Very dry, rough, flaky, or bumpy skin, including keratosis-pilaris-prone areas. A staple of therapeutic dry-skin creams.
What is urea in skincare?
Urea, also called carbamide, is a dual-action ingredient that hydrates and smooths. It is part of the skin's own natural moisturizing factor, so it both draws in water and helps skin hold onto it.
What makes urea unusual is that its job depends on the dose: low strengths hydrate, higher strengths exfoliate rough skin.
What does urea do for skin?
Urea hydrates at low concentrations and smooths rough, flaky skin at higher ones.
A review of topical urea found it both hydrates and, at higher concentrations, acts as a keratolytic that smooths rough, scaly skin.
That is why urea anchors therapeutic dry-skin creams from brands like Eucerin, and why it is a favorite for very dry legs, elbows, and bumpy texture. Higher-strength urea works well alongside a rich moisturizer.
Who should use urea?
Urea suits very dry, rough, flaky, or bumpy skin. Low-percentage urea is a gentle everyday humectant, while higher-percentage urea targets thickened, scaly areas.
Evidence
Topical urea both hydrates and, at higher concentrations, acts as a keratolytic that smooths rough, scaly skin.
Read the source: Dermatologic Therapy: Topical urea in skincare, a review (2018) ->
